Float and switch
- Fill the pit with a pail until the float lifts. If the pump does not start, the float may be stuck against the pit wall, tangled in its cord or failed. Many pumps have a piggyback plug for the float; we test the switch separately from the motor.
- Short-cycling, where the pump runs for a few seconds and shuts off repeatedly, often means the float range is too small or the check valve is letting water fall back into the pit.
Motor and impeller
- A motor that hums while nothing moves usually has a jammed impeller, often from gravel or debris pulled up from the pit floor. We lift the pump, clear the intake screen and impeller, and set it on a flat brick or stand so it is not drawing debris.
- If the motor is seized or burned out, the pump needs replacing. The replacement is matched to the pit size and discharge.
Signs you need this
- Pump hums but no water moves
- Pump runs for seconds then stops
- Water level stays high in the pit
- Rushing sound back into the pit after shut-off
- Pump has not run all season despite rain
Check valve and discharge
- A failed check valve means the column of water standing in the discharge line drops straight back down into the sump whenever the motor shuts off, so the motor cycles about twice as much as it should. A clunking sound is normal; a sound of rushing water back into the pit is not.
- Outside, a frozen or crushed discharge pipe, or one buried in snow, blocks the flow. In Richmond Hill winters we see this often. Clearing and rerouting the outdoor end solves it.
How the job runs
- 1
The float is tested by filling the pit.
- 2
The pump is lifted and the intake and impeller are cleared.
- 3
The check valve and discharge line are inspected inside and out.
- 4
Failed parts are replaced and the system is tested under load.
Richmond Hill note: most houses here sit on York Region municipal water with fairly hard supply, and many basements have a floor drain tied to the sanitary lateral. Mention both on the phone; it changes what goes on the truck.
Want a second opinion on your own pipes first? Dial (365) 363-1575; the person answering holds the wrench.